There’s no rhyme or reason when it comes to predicting the food
trends that we'll see emerging in 2017. Look back over the past years and
bubble tea, the foraging fad, cup cakes and pulled pork thankfully seem like
distant memories while last year's style suggestions for the food industry
failed to make a splash. Freak-shakes (taking a perfectly good pudding and
blending it with milk), rainbow bagels (taking a perfectly good bagel and
making it look toxic) and fermented food (the stuff you used to throw away in
horror) thankfully never really made it past hipster eateries. Let's hope the same can be said of most of this year's nominations.
In 2017 we can, according to 'food influencers' look forward to vegetable
yoghurts - apres Ski, if you like. I can't stand the sour milk pots at the best
of times so the thought of adding cauliflower, beetroot or Brussels sprouts
seems to add insult to injury. Camel milk, which boasts more protein and lower cholesterol than your average
semi-skimmed milk, will apparently replace the almond milk and
yesterday's-news-coconut water in your fridge. It costs £11 for 500ml, so most
of the cash will be replaced with an overdraft in your bank account, too.
Insects are, once again - yawn - being touted as a super food. You buy them on
the internet. No food should ever be bought online. Fact. Bizarrely, avocado was the undoubted success of the past year with claims that
it outsold the humble orange. Then again, the best-selling dish on The Assembly
House menu is the chicken and ham pancake made from a recipe from my grubby
recipe book from the 1970s. I'm hoping to repeat the trick this year with my
seafood vol au vent!
Grains, cereals, seeds and fruits are said to be set to become menu mainstays -
I think this one has more chance given the dietary fads, advice from the
doctors, the rise of the vocal vegan movement and the fact they actually taste
nice. Also, being inexpensive, the chances of them making into commercial
kitchens are somewhat higher. Think pasta, polenta and risotto, the chef and his
accountants’ dream. This tip is given even more credence with the stove shattering news that the
most prestigious cooking competition in the professional world, the Bocuse
d’Or, is demanding competitors eschew the meat element from their recipes and
produce classical vegetarian cuisine in Paul Bocuse's 2017 culinary Grand Prix.
The memorable meal I ate at his Lyon gastronomic temple was a homage to five
decades of culinary tradition, so it gladdens my heart, makes my pulse race and
gives me hope for humanity that another tip for the coming year is a return to
old-fashioned service values and classical cooking.
I think Heston Blumenthal can take some of the credit for this one. His banana
and bacon trifle for a leading supermarket was the nadir of a very difficult
year. It's time for a backlash. If you bought one, go and sit on the naughty
step and think about what you did last year.